The Alpine Butterfly Knot

Alpine butterfly knotThe Alpine butterfly knot enables you to easily form a secure loop in the middle of a rope, without having to touch either end, an advantage when dealing with long climbing ropes.

 

How to tie an Alpine Butterfly Knot:

Advantages

  • Forms stable, secure loop after initial setting
  • Allows for the knot to be loaded three ways; by each end of the main line and the loop
  • Relatively easy to untie after loading (more difficult if wet)
  • Size of loop can be adjusted more easily than with bulkier or more complex loop knots
  • Easy to inspect
  • Can be easily tied with gloves on

Disadvantages

  • Difficult to tie around a solid ring or similar object, as when a rethreaded figure eight is needed
  • Difficult to tie one-handed
  • Improper tying can result in similar looking but inferior "false butterfly" knot
  • Works best with softer ropes

Pictures and video courtesy of www.climbingarborist.com

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